1. Chamois

Where to begin. As previously mentioned, chamois are pretty much a sham. They tend to push water better than absorb it, and their high-maintenance natural composition makes for a terrible drying cloth. Worse, however, is that when using a chamois to dry your car, you’re putting your finish in potential harm. Unlike microfiber towels, chamois are basically a solid (animal skin) towel with no terry cushion whatsoever. Get a rock or a few dirt particles under there while drying you car and… well, you know. Switching to microfiber gives you the advantage and safety of increased absorption, plus the added benefit of plush fibers that lift dirt into the towel rather than dragging it across the finish. Your Grandfather may still love chamois, but trust me, it’s time for a change.

2. Jumping to Machine Polishing Too Early

In the event that your car gets a few minor surface scratches, do not consult the internet. 90% of forums will recommend a heavy polish and the use of a machine buffer to solve your paint problems. In fact, a good amount of detailers will, too. Somewhere along the line machine polishing became all the rage, but it’s extremely overused in car care today. The biggest problem is using a machine when you simply don’t need to thanks to modern polishing products that do a lot more work than those of the past. Most problems (light scratches, oxidation, etc.) can be corrected with a hand polishing procedure or a paint cleaning product like Pre-Wax Prep that does significantly less damage to your paint than a machine would. Think about it, where do you think those circular swirl marks came from? A machine buffer. At the end of the day, over-polishing is a terrible misfortune in our industry and it should be avoided – especially with new cars. Most of the time it’s just overkill. The train toward proactive car care is here, so jump on.

3. Dressing

When trying to revive the appearance of vinyl, leather, rubber or plastic, the traditional product of choice had the word “dressing” in it. Now think about that for a minute. Dressing is a coverup and that’s exactly the sham (sorry for being repetitive) these products are trying to pull on you. Rather than nourishing the surface to bring out it’s natural luster, softness, or sheen, with a dressing you’re essentially globbing an artificial shine to the surface you should be revitalizing. The solution then is actually quite simple – conditioning. Conditioners are absorbed by porous surfaces like leather or vinyl and deliver them the nutrients and moisture they need to look as close to new as possible. Unlike dressings, most conditioners have UV protection against the sun’s rays (leather and vinyl’s worst nightmare). The choice here is obvious, it’s better to improve a surface’s condition than to simply mask (or dress) its blemishes.

4. Applying Wax With Your Hands

In all seriousness, if you’re applying wax by rubbing your palms together and spreading it across the surface, you’re being taken for a ride. Not only does this wacky technique waste A TON of wax, but it’s not so great for your car. Applying by hand almost guarantees uneven application, and potentially can lead to damage if you forget to take a ring or bracelet off. If applying by hand meant a better shine, sure, I could see some benefit, but the fact is that it doesn’t. You’re still applying the exact same product, just in a nasty, inefficient, and ineffective way. I don’t know about you, but when I’m detailing I don’t exactly yearn for a slime-like greasy substance to cover my hands. Thankfully, with the modern creation of applicators, we no longer have to reduce our wax application process to that of barbarians. While some suggest microfiber, foam applicators are the absolute best tool for applying wax to your car. Microfiber absorbs too much and can get messy, while foam is light and formable, leading to a much more even application of sealants (and even polishes). As a side note: if you’re applying wax with a high-speed machine, I sincerely ask you to stop. It’s simply not needed. At all. Ever. Stick to foam, I beg you.

At the end of the day, it’s important to know that there have been and continually are advances in car care. A lot of old techniques have been replaced with technologies (like the Grit Guard) that create a safer process for keeping your car clean. Combine that with innovative car care products and you’re good to go. Stay tuned to Behind the Detail for continuous updates in both product and process advances, and remember we’re here to help (myteam@drbeasleys.com, facebook, or comment below)!

1. Protect immediately and regularly. A huge difference between an actual matte paint job and a matte vinyl wrap is a clear coat. The vinyl wrap has no sort of protection, and is exposed to various environmental contaminants whereas the pigment layer in factory matte paint will be concealed by a matte clear coat. This poses a problem for wrapped cars, especially when you let hot tar sit behind the wheel wells or forget to remove those bird droppings on the roof. Once vinyl’s damaged, there’s really no going back. So the first thing you’ve got to do is wash the car and protect the wrap with Matte Paint Sealant. This will give you a solid base layer of protection to make cleaning easier down the road.

2. Wash at least twice per month. Cars get dirty if you drive them, and with wraps it can get worse. Depending on the quality of wrap and how dirty it actually is, dirt can embed itself in the vinyl causing discoloration or staining (unless you’re protected of course). It looks plain nasty. Washing twice a month with a matte car wash soap will keep the finish clean and free from contaminants so you don’t have to worry. Plus nobody likes a dirty car, right?

3. Keep a matte final inspection spray handy. You never know when a bird’s going to leave you a present, and if you’ve got Matte Final Finish in your glovebox, you’re a step ahead of the game. Fingerprints, dust, pollen – you know the deal. With a detail spray handy you’ll be able to make sure the integrity of your finish is never in question.

So you see, matte wraps are a lot like matte paint except for the fact that they need a bit more attention. The lack of a clear coat makes staining easier and requires that you stay on top of caring for the finish. Luckily all the matte products you’ll need are right in our store, so remember… you’re never alone in caring for your car. MyTeam is always here to help.

Read about why matte looks flat.

Read up on matte paint myths and get the facts.

Going to the car show

For show cars and collectables, there’s no question that this is one of the more popular reasons for layering waxes. The goal is, obviously, to get the best shine possible. Typically those in this specific scenario aren’t too worried about durability, which as we know is on a sliding scale with shine. Therefore, if you’re layering to go to the car show, you’ll want to aim toward a light and fluffy carnauba paste wax. Carnauba creates a warm, delicate glow to the car’s natural finish – especially on darker cars. Nothing can beat a natural ‘nuba shine, and when layered, it can be quite the sight. With carnauba waxes, you can layer right over each layer as many times as your heart desires. All you have to look out for is that each layer has cured before adding more wax – simply let it haze, buff the excess with a microfiber towel, and reapply. It’s really quite simple and can yield unbelievable results through a deep, wet looking finish. TIP: Never layer with a cleaner wax, you will weaken or remove the base layer. Make sure your layering carnauba wax doesn’t have heavy solvents or cleaners (as most car waxes do).

Daily driver protection (seasonal protection)

I must admit, this is a bit of an oxymoron. You see, most daily drivers don’t protect their vehicles. The vast majority will hit up an automatic car wash once or twice a month and that’s about all the love their paint finish will see in it’s lifetime. Nevertheless, you’re here because you care. The most practical and efficient way to keep your car protected on the road and keep a good looking shine is with a paint sealant and carnauba wax. The paint sealant will act as a durable base layer for the carnauba, which adds a deep luminous shine over the durable sealant layer. The one thing to watch out for in this case is that you must allow the paint sealant to fully cure (24-48 hours) before adding the carnauba. This is because carnauba as it naturally exists is acidic (read more), and if applied to an un-bonded layer of paint sealant, it will actually weaken the durability of the base layer. After the paint sealant has cured, however, you can apply the carnauba no problem and you’ll experience the best of durability and that richer, deep, wet look at the same time. TIP: Using Formula 1201, which bonds immediately to the surface by using water, can save you loads of time. After applying 1201 you can immediately begin on the carnauba layer without having to wait.

Winter driving & storage season

Typically nicer cars don’t see winter’s teeth too often unless you live relatively close to the equator. If you’re more polar on the North or South hemisphere, you know how brutal it can be for your car with a few months full of road salt, sludge, snow, and just plain wetness. At the same time, if your car’s under wraps for a good 3 months, there’s no telling how much dust can build onto the surface; and when you go to take off the cover, you don’t want to be dragging that across your finish. Whether you’re packing up your wheels or throwing chains on them, you want to make sure your paint has the utmost protection against the elements. Shine is not of importance, so forget the carnauba. It’s time to bust out the big guns and lap on two (or more) layers of paint sealant. That means allowing the sealant to cure, then going back and reapplying (unless you use 1201 of course). The added durability will make sure nothing’s causing harm to your paint whatsoever.

Layering FAQs

• Does 3 layers mean 3 times the protection? | Not so much. With layering waxes, the law of deminishing returns does apply. Three layers of wax will last longer than a single layer might, but it’s certainly not an exponential return.
• Can carnauba go immediately over a polymer paint sealant? | Yes, so long as you’ve let the sealant cure fully. If you use Formula 1201 to seal the paint, that process is immediate – therefore you can go right ahead with a carnauba.
• Isn’t one thick layer of wax better than a lot of thin layers? | No. If you glob wax onto the surface, you’re only going to have to remove what didn’t bond anyway. A thin layer is all that’s going to adhere, so in every way, thinly layering is actually much more effective than a thick application.

At the end of the day, layering can provide you and your car with some definitely advantages. More protection, durability, and less cleaning to name a few. Trust me, it’s worth trying out even if it’s just a seasonal thing. You’ll see the difference immediately (and so will everyone else).

MYTH #1: You can’t protect a matte paint finish.

Busted. While this may have been the case when matte paint first emerged into the automotive marketplace, it certainly is not the case today. At the same time, this myth does make sense if and only if the protection product uses fillers, silicones, or any type of wax. So what’s that mean? It means the only (effective) way to protect matte paint is with a liquid matte paint sealant specifically formulated not to increase the surface’s gloss rating.

MYTH #2: It’s hard to take care of a matte painted car.

The problem here is in the wording. If you consider taking care of a “regular” (non-matte) car hard, then sure, maintaining a matte car might be tough for you. Chances are if you’re on this blog you care about your car and how it looks, and with that said, chances are you understand where I’m coming from here. Taking care of a matte painted car is no more work that properly caring for a glossy car. By the way, the mere fact that you’ll never be polishing your matte car makes it that much easier to care for. Matte finishes are way less susceptible to clear coat scratches and swirl marks simply because the matte finish is non-reflective. If you know about the science of scratches, you also know that when there’s no light to reflect off a scratch the human eye has a hard time really seeing it. Myth tackled.

MYTH #3: Matte paint is just regular paint without a clear coat.

Absolutely not. In rare cases, maybe your aftermarket matte paint job has no clear coat, but if you get it from the factory it definitely will. In fact, it’s actually the clear coat that makes factory matte paint look flat with its microscopic imperfections and “dimples” (read more). If you got your car or motorcycle painted matte in a booth by a third-party, I recommend making sure they put on a matte clear coat over the pigment layer of paint. Without a clear coat your messing with fire.

MYTH #4: Dish soap is safe to use on matte paint.

Dish soap is formulated to do one thing (unless you use that brand that moisturizes your hands), and that thing is to strip grease and grime off of hard surfaces (ie. plates, glass, etc.). As you now know, you can most certainly protect matte paint – using dish soap to clean the car will weaken the bond of any sealant or substance on the painted surface of your car. So in a sense it may not do damage to the paint, but it’s certainly doing more than just cleaning it. Do yourself (and your matte finish) a favor and get a no-shine matte car wash soap that uses no fillers, no silicone, and won’t strip your matte paint of its layer of protection.

MYTH #5: Matte paint is super fragile and not at all durable.

Ehhh, not quite. Not sure where this one started from, but I guess everybody speculates on exotic items and that they aren’t built to last. Matte paint, if it’s from the manufacturer, is absolutely designed to last the entire life of the car. Going back to Myth #3, that’s why we put clear coat on our cars – longterm protection for the pigment layer of paint. Because most matte paint does in fact use a clear coat layer, the only thing you have to worry about is protecting that clear coat layer with a matte paint sealant.

MYTH #6: The dealership will know what to do.

If only I had a dime for every instance I’ve heard this one. Trust me, dealerships are good for just about one thing: selling you a car… and most of them are terrible at doing that. They did not manufacture your car, they are not related to the development company who created the paint, and they definitely don’t read the entire manual before telling you how many miles your car should go without an oil change. Leave the paint care to professionals who understand the science behind matte paint and not those who only get paid if and when you purchase the car from them. Face it, most dealerships are trained rigorously to learn how to say say, “yes” no matter the customer’s question. Think about it… does this model have ABS? “Yes, for an extra $3,200.” You get my point.

Anyway, when all is said and done, if you’re lucky enough to own a matte car… it needs specific attention. There are things you should know and things you should avoid. There are secrets and tips, and believe me there are a whole bunch of knuckle heads online who’ll take any theory that pops in their head and post it to a forum as advice. The bottom line is trust the experts – that’s why we’re here. Whether you drive a 2004 Subaru WRX or a matte C63 AMG, we can help… just email myteam@drbeasleys.com, comment below, or ask us on facebook to get your answers straightened out once and for all.

Step 1: Clean | Because cloth seats certainly show more messes than leather does, I absolutely mean it… clean regularly. Just because you spilled a soda doesn’t mean dab paper towels on the seat until it’s dry enough to sit on. Trust me, you won’t want to deal with the aftermath, the stink, or the irreversible staining certain spills can cause (read more about spills and smells). All you’ve got to do is clean thoroughly with a carpet/upholstery cleaner, an upholstery-safe cleaning brush, and microfiber towels. If you don’t clean, it’s no better than inviting bugs, bacteria and odors to gradually take over your car. And if you think we’re kidding, our sister shop in Chicago has found everything from dead mice to fungus hanging out (of sight and mind) in customer cars. It’s not pretty.

Step 2: Prep | The idea behind step number two is preparing the surface (in the case upholstery or cloth) for protection. After us just about any car cleaning product, the surface that you’ve cleaned will retain residual chemical and even sway in the direction of the cleaning product’s pH level. For soft surfaces, and even hard for that matter, this can be potentially caustic. While cleaning and leaving the surface bare won’t completely tarnish it, if you go to protect an un balanced (pH) surface, the sealant will be fought while bonding. You’ll still get protection, however it won’t last as long and its durability will suffer immensely. Protection products are formulated to adhere to a pH balanced, or neutral, surface. Since the pH scale works with opposing properties (basic and acidic) that interact so differently, it becomes problematic to develop a wax (for example) to be applied after a car wash soap with a basic pH of 11. Along those same lines, there is no standard amongst product manufacturers. In order for a cleaning product to do its job, chances are it’s either acidic or basic. Rarely will you find a quality cleaner with a pH of 7 that’s actually going to get the job done. The only logical answer to this swirling problem? Neutralize. In this case, use a neutralizer to prepare the upholstered cloth surface for protection.

Step 3: Protect | I might’ve given this step away a bit in step two, but it’s not meant to be a secret. After cleaning, you should always prepare for protection. After that, you should always, obviously, protect that surface. Protecting upholstery does exactly what you think it’d do – make cleaning easier next time you spill coffee on the passenger’s seat. All you’ve got to do is lightly mist the surface, allow it some time to bond, and dab dry with a microfiber towel. The thin coating applied by an upholstery protection product shields individual fibers against staining and absorption in avoidance of odors, bacteria buildup, and other nasty problems that can arise from a simple spill. Less headache, less worries, and less problems… that’s what protection is all about.

Now that you know the standard process in properly cleaning your cloth upholstered seats, apply the same formula to every aspect of your vehicle. Inside, outside – paint, leather – wheels, glass. It’s all the same. Some vehicular surfaces won’t need as much attention as a softer more supple surface like leather might, but in all cases, prepping the surface for protection after every time you do some cleaning leads to increased longevity of your clean, better appearances, and one less thing to worry about in our crazy lives. Now who wouldn’t want that?

Paint Sealant | Whether you’re driving a matte car or a glossy car, a paint sealant is your car’s best friend. First off, you can’t use carnauba on matte cars, but for glossy cars, the added heat really takes a toll on (the much weaker) natural waxes. A (non-matte) paint sealant will deliver you a brilliant shine with added durability, even allowing you to wax on top of it if you can’t resist the fluffy carnauba. For matte cars, protecting your matte paint finish regularly is always advised to keep the finish looking flat and new.

Detail Spray | Summer tends to be the time when our cars play host to a whole lot of crap. For the most part that can be interpreted figuratively, but on the topic of birds, I’m totally serious. Things like dust, pollen, bird crap, tree sap, construction overspray etc. are all lurking come summer – and if you don’t carry a final inspection spray in your car, you could potentially find yourself needing a machine buff. Trust me, it’s easier to clean things off as they occur than to buff an imperfection back to normal.

Wheel Sealant | You know what’s hotter than a 95˚ day? Your brakes after about 40 minutes of driving. Hot brakes plus hot brake dust = hell for your wheels. I don’t care if you’ve got chrome, matte, powder coated or spray painted wheels, they need protection come Summer. Allowing brake dust to cake on the surface causes etching and pitting, two of the most unsightly things that can happen to your car besides swirl marks and scratches. Make sure your wheel sealant has no carnauba, as the high heat causes carnauba to soften and literally run right off your wheels.

Odor Eliminator | Seems a little odd, but Summer is sometimes a little foul. Whether it be a gym bag that’s left in the trunk for a few days or the remnants of a spilled ice cream cone, stuff happens… and believe me, you’ll want something to rid your ride of the odor when it does. Stay one step (and one smell) ahead of the game by always keeping a bottle handy. Especially this summer.

No matter the reason, we all want our cars looking good. From the above you can see it might require a bit of preparation, but ask a passionate car enthusiast their opinion – they’ll say it’s worth every moment. There’s nothing like a good looking car, so get yours ready for summer 2012 with the proper car care products.

The wait is over. Start with Matte Body Wash and give your bike a good cleaning. On any soiled areas, behind the front tire or lower fairings, use Matte Paint Cleanser to successfully remove water spots, some staining, and more. After washing the bike, leave it wet and apply Matte Paint Sealant to any matte surface. You can go right over gas caps, accents, decals, lights, and more with Matte Paint Sealant without causing harm. In fact, you’d be protecting them, too. Once your done, keep the 4 oz. bottle of Matte Final Finish with you so you can remove fingerprints, dust spots, and gunk from your bike after a ride.

Whether you ride to cruise the back roads or hit the track, be sure to have your Matte Motorcycle Prescription handy when it’s time to get clean. You won’t be disappointed.

Shop Now!

Here they are:

• Do not polish or wax the vehicle.
• Do not use mechanical means of cleaning the surface.
• Remove insect remains, tar and other residues immediately.
• Always keep your paint protected.

In the video, they do a great job of telling you what you should know, but they don’t really tell you why. I guess you could say I’m here to fill the gap and fill you in on the reasoning behind their statements. Here goes…

1. BMW’s experts are exactly right, do not use polish or wax on your matte paint. Polishing, an abrasive process, is meant to smooth out the surface and level off imperfections. Problem is, matte paint appears flat because of imperfections in the clear coat layer. When you polish, you’re effectively deminishing your matte car’s ability to retain light. Similarly, waxing your car with any sort of paste or carnauba will fill those same imperfections, leveling the surface once more. Think about waxing over a tiny scratch on a “regular” car… when you wax over it, it will become less visible because light reflects more easily off of the less-imperfect surface. There you have it.
   • Matte Rule #1: Do not wax or polish.
2. Somebody get a bell, BMW got another one right… do not use any mechanical or automated means of cleaning your matte paint. Basically it boils down to NEVER buffing your matte paint, and NEVER taking it to an automatic car wash. Any sort of high-speed (buffer) or repetitive motion (twirling brushes, dragging noodles, etc.) will cause harm to the matte finish. Always wash by hand with a pH balanced matte specific car wash soap.
   • Matte Rule #2: No mechanical means of cleaning.
3. Call it a hat-trick, always remove insect remains, tar, sap, oil, overspray, bird poop, etc., etc., etc. from your paint immediately. This one’s super simple, but given their next claim, you’d think it’d be tough to do, but you’ll soon see it’s not as hard as it looks.
   • Matte Rule #3: Clean stuff off your paint immediately.
4. This last point is important, and it’s in response to some…questionable advice BMW gives in it’s video. Yes, some of the products they mention (microfiber, wax, sealants, and detail sprays) can damage your paint… unless you’ve done your homework. So what do I mean by homework? Well let’s start with microfibers. Microfiber towels are the absolutely safest towel to use on the market due to their absorbant, plush, and lint free characteristics (read more on microfiber). They don’t drag contaminants across the surface like a chamois or cotton towel, they don’t leave streaks, and their water retention is nothing short of admirable. That said, they can be damaging if there is an exposed seam coming in contact with the paint, or in the event that the towel is soiled – yes – any towel will do damage. Next, applying any type of wax or sealant does pose the risk of damaging paint. Applying just about anything with a terry or microfiber applicator to a dry surface will microscopically harm your paint and cause minor surface scratches (read more on scratches). For that very reason, we developed Matte Paint Sealant (liquid) which uses water – by leaving the car wet after washing – in the bonding process to create a long lasting, durable layer of protection against the effects of dust, debris, contaminants, and more. Any protection product using silicones, waxes, paste, or carnauba to any extent will either increase the gloss rating of your matte finish or do damage to the clear coat. Lastly, final inspection type products usually use microfiber towels, and as I stated before, if you have a crappy microfiber towel, you’re probably going to do a bit of damage. Other than that, the only damage a traditional detail spray would do to your paint is leave a shine – typically most final inspection sprays use large amounts of fillers and silicones to leave a “normal” car with a deeper shine. As far as Matte Rule #4 goes, it’s safe to say BMW left a little out…
• Matte Rule #4 is arguably the single most important rule for matte car owners. I cannot stress enough the importance of protecting your paint, as that is the only way to preserve it’s factory no-shine look. Truth is, everything covered in Rule #3 becomes a whole lot easier when you protect your paint. Removing water stains gets easier, getting bird crap off your car gets easier, and most importantly, it all gets much less damaging to your paint when you have a protective barrier on top of your clear coat. And don’t worry… when you need to apply a matte final inspection spray to remove finger prints, dust spots and the like, that premium microfiber towel you’re using won’t be doing damage to the matte finish. There’s no silicone, no fillers, and no wax in the formulation. So there you have it… Protect your matte paint regularly with a no-shine, no wax, non-filling matte paint sealant specifically designed for the uniqueness of your paint.

Here’s the video (the juicy stuff starts at 1:35):


While you’re at it, check out the matte Range Rover we got a chance to detail. More pics and videos coming soon. Lots of content coming your way!

Let us know what you think. Get at us if you have any matte questions, and keep regular on Behind the Detail for everything matte paint.

]]> http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2012/04/22/bmw-frozen-paint-guidelines/feed/ 8 http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2012/04/19/mario-andretti-ferrari-event/ http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2012/04/19/mario-andretti-ferrari-event/#comments Fri, 20 Apr 2012 01:10:44 +0000 James Detmer http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/?p=7430 Continue reading →]]> This most recent Sunday was pretty eventful for me. I got the chance to ride up to Napa, California with the Ferrari Club of Northern California. Our destination? Mario Andretti’s vineyard. Let me clarify, he is a co-owner of the winery and, to my knowledge, doesn’t hang out there much. Needless to say, I wasn’t really expecting to meet the man himself. Well, I did.

First off, Mario is an amazing human being. If you don’t know his history, let me recap it for you ever so gracefully. Mr. Andretti is one of only two drivers to win races in Formula One, IndyCar, World Sportscar Championship and NASCAR. He remains the only driver ever to win the Indianapolis 500 (1969), Daytona 500 (1967) and the Formula One World Championship. At his date of retirement, Andretti had 109 career wins on major circuits. The three time United States Driver of the Year isn’t simply a human being, he’s a supernatural driving machine. His presence is coveted amongst car lovers and racing fans almost as much as the late Enzo Ferrari himself.

The best part? You’d think he’d be a bit smug after such an iconic driving career, but he’s the furthest thing from it. Hands down Mario Andretti is one of the most humble superstars I’ve ever had the chance to hear speak. While mingling with the Ferrari club owners, chatting about cars and sipping wine of course, Mario didn’t seem to be there to push his brand, but more for the love of automobile enthusiasm. Fielding questions left and right, he was approachable from any angle. Want your racing gloves signed? No problem. A picture with Mario? If you can wait in line, sure. To my surprise, he was even open to signing your car if you really wanted his John Hancock on your engine. A truly amazing celebrity.

I, however, did not ask for an autograph. Yea it would’ve been cool, but I was more enamored by his perspective and knowledge in regards to driving, cars, and life in general. Whether you wanted his input on race tracks, Michael Schumacher, or Danica Patrick, he’d give it to you honestly. He went into extraordinary depth and detail in regards to his past races – down to the turn. Maybe it was the wine, but believe me, I wasn’t the only one with my jaw hanging open. And then he got to the cars…

Mario, if you don’t know, sits on a throne next to no one when it comes to driving. He is, and may always be, the greatest driver to ever grab a wheel. That said, you knew the car questions were coming at some point. “What’s your favorite car, Mario?” was probably asked 6 different times, and his answer belted out instantly every single time.

“Whatever I can win with.”

If that doesn’t shoot chills down your spine, check your pulse. This is a guy who Lamborghini and Ferrari literally FIGHT OVER to test their cars. In fact, he has exclusive contracts with a number of manufactures to make sure their cars work the way they should. When it comes to glorified track times and test laps, this is the guy you want driving your company’s car. Most recently he had tested Lamborghini’s Aventador and the new Ferrari 458 Spyder in Europe. The question on my mind wasn’t about which of these super-duper-duper cars he loves the most, but rather what road car he’d like to get behind the wheel of on a regular basis. His answer? Acura’s new NSX.

I thought that was interesting. I thought the event was spectacular. And I think Mario is, once again, a truly amazing human being. Words cannot express how humble and inspiring his story is, and simply being in his presence made me feel like a better driver (or something like that). Other than giggling like a little child on the way home from the event, it was a pretty cool day to say the least.

Stay tuned for more on the event and the Ferrari Club coming this week. Photos, too!

]]> http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2012/04/19/mario-andretti-ferrari-event/feed/ 0 http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2012/04/16/whats-new/ http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/2012/04/16/whats-new/#comments Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:30:41 +0000 Dr. Beasley's http://www.drbeasleys.com/blog/?p=7417 Continue reading →]]> Hey all,

Just want to give you an update on where we’ve been and what we’ve been doing for the past week or so. If you’ve checked out our facebook, you may already know, but we’ve got quite a bit of content coming your way! We had the pleasure of detailing a matte black Range Rover in Chicago and yesterday we got to head up to Mario Andretti’s vineyard in northern California.

We’ve got photos, videos, articles, and more coming your way, so be sure to stay active! While you’re at it, tweet us and check out our existing lot of automotive photography. We know you’ll enjoy it. Here’s a sneak peak:

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